How I Pack My Tack Trunk for a Quiet Trailer Ride

A tack trunk can look perfectly organised in the wash bay and still sound like a toolbox falling down the stairs once the trailer reaches the first cattle grid. I learnt this with Archie after a long trip to a cross-country schooling day. Every turn produced a clatter from behind the saddle, and by the time we arrived, several bottles had tipped over and my hoof pick had disappeared beneath a pile of wraps.

The problem was not the trunk itself. It was the empty space around everything inside it. Brushes shifted, metal buckles knocked against grooming tools, and the lid had just enough movement to vibrate over corrugated sections of road. A bumpy horse-trailer journey magnifies every small gap, particularly on the long rural roads common around New South Wales and Victoria.

Packing for an eventing day also means carrying far more than a saddle and bridle. I need dressage essentials, show-jumping equipment, cross-country boots, bandages, spare clothes, first-aid items and enough horse-care supplies for weather that may change between loading at home and arriving at the venue. The goal is to use the available space without turning the trunk into a tightly wedged jumble.

My system is simple: clean the trunk, group equipment by use, cushion anything that can move, and test the result before Archie travels. It saves time at competitions and prevents the small rattles that make a journey feel longer for both horse and rider.

Start With An Empty Trunk

Before packing, I empty the entire tack trunk onto a clean, dry surface. This is the quickest way to find the items that have quietly migrated into the wrong corner: an old sponge, a loose stirrup leather keeper, a half-used roll of vet wrap or a pair of muddy bell boots. I wipe out sand and dried mud because grit acts like packing material in the worst possible way. It gets into zips, scratches plastic containers and makes everything slide.

I also inspect the hinges, catches and handles. A loose catch can produce a sharp metallic tap with every bump, while a cracked handle may allow the trunk to flex when it is lifted. My heavier competition trunk has removable dividers, so I check that they are seated firmly and do not rattle against the walls. If a divider is slightly loose, I wrap the contact points with a strip of soft fleece or adhesive felt rather than relying on the contents to hold it still.

This empty-trunk check is especially useful before travelling from a suburban yard to a regional event. The distance can be considerable, and the route may include motorway joins, rough access roads and unsealed venue driveways. Finding a problem at home is much easier than discovering it beside the float while Archie is waiting to be unloaded.

Create A Padded Base

I begin with a padded base rather than placing equipment directly on the plastic or metal floor. A folded saddle cloth works well, although I usually use an older numnah that is clean but no longer part of Archie’s competition kit. It cushions the trunk and fills the shallow gaps underneath grooming boxes. A small stable rug or fleece cooler can also work, provided it is dry and folded neatly.

The base should be thick enough to absorb vibration without making the lid difficult to close. I fold the cloth into a rectangle that covers the floor, then put heavier, flatter items on top. Spare towels, a lightweight cooler and a folded rain sheet are useful because they provide padding while still being needed at the event. I avoid stuffing loose fabric into every corner, as compressed material can spring back and push against the lid.

The bottom layer is where I place items that can tolerate pressure: spare towels, clean stable bandages in their bag and sealed packs of wipes. I do not put bottles, delicate leatherwork or anything with a sharp edge underneath heavy gear. A padded base reduces noise, but it cannot prevent damage if a hoof-pick handle or pair of scissors is allowed to sit against a fragile bottle.

Pack By Job Rather Than Shape

My next step is to divide the tack trunk according to the moment when I will need each item. The grooming section contains brushes, a curry comb, mane comb, hoof pick, sweat scraper and a small towel. The tack-care section holds leather cleaner, conditioner, cloths and a spare hole punch. Event-day supplies, such as sunscreen, gloves, plaiting bands and safety pins, go together in a smaller zipped pouch.

Grouping by job makes the trunk easier to unpack and reduces rummaging. If Archie needs a quick tidy before dressage, I can lift out one grooming bag instead of moving six unrelated objects. The same approach helps when I am preparing for show jumping or cross-country and need to locate boots, over-reach bells and a stud kit without disturbing everything else.

I put soft bags around hard objects wherever possible. Brushes travel inside a fabric grooming bag, and spare reins or stirrup leathers are rolled loosely rather than folded into sharp angles. My helmet is never packed in the trunk; it stays in its protective case in the tow vehicle. The same applies to medical supplies that might be damaged by movement or heat.

For Archie’s jumping preparation, I keep confidence-building exercises in mind as well as physical equipment. The notes from combination fence confidence schooling sessions stay in a small notebook, separate from the rattling tools and bottles.

Stop Metal From Touching Metal

Metal-on-metal contact creates the most irritating sound in a moving trunk. Bits, buckles, spurs, scissors and hoof picks need their own barriers. I put bits inside a soft bit bag or wrap them in a clean tea towel. Spurs go into their pouch, and scissors are closed and placed in a fabric case. I never allow loose clips to share a compartment with grooming tools.

Small drawstring bags are excellent for this purpose. I have one for studs and their wrench, another for plaiting equipment and a third for spare leather keepers. The bags stop tiny objects from spreading through the trunk, while the fabric absorbs vibration. An old pair of socks can protect individual items in a pinch, although I label anything that could be confused with horse clothing.

I pay particular attention to tools with long handles. A hoof pick can tap against the side wall even when everything else is secure, so it goes into the grooming bag rather than lying across the top. A body brush with a rigid back can do the same. Once all hard items are contained, I shake each pouch over the bench. If I hear movement, I add a cloth or rearrange the contents before the pouches go into the trunk.

Contain Liquids And Leaky Supplies

Liquids need more protection than ordinary items because a small leak can ruin rugs, leatherwork and paperwork. I tighten every cap, wipe the outside of bottles and put shampoos, coat sprays and leather products inside a sealed plastic tub. The tub is not there to stop rattling by itself; it creates a second layer of protection if a cap loosens during travel.

I prefer bottles with narrow, secure lids and avoid taking nearly empty containers. A half-full spray bottle has more room for liquid to surge, and that movement can eventually loosen the cap. For products I use regularly, I decant a small amount into a sturdy travel bottle and label it clearly. Australian summer heat makes this particularly important when a trunk sits briefly in the sun at a showground near Wagga Wagga or Tamworth.

The liquid tub sits low and between soft items, never on top of leather or clean competition clothes. I keep the emergency wash supplies separate from the main tack trunk when possible, so a leaking fly spray cannot contaminate everything. Before leaving, I place a folded towel beneath the tub. It catches minor drips and adds another layer of cushioning.

Use The Lid As A Restraint

Once the main compartments are filled, I check the space below the lid. A trunk can be quiet at floor level and still rattle because the lid presses against loose items. I place a flat folded towel or fleece pad across the top, making sure it is not so thick that it strains the catches. This top layer holds pouches in place and softens movement from above.

I close the lid slowly and lift one end of the trunk a few centimetres, then the other. If something slides, I open it and fix the gap rather than hoping the road will be kinder. A gentle side-to-side shake is also revealing. The test should produce a dull, padded sound, not a sharp clank or a rolling object moving from corner to corner.

I keep frequently used items near the top, but not loose. Gloves, hoof picks and wipes go into a small zipped pouch that sits under the lid pad. This arrangement is helpful at busy Australian venues where parking may be on grass or gravel and there is little room to spread equipment around the float. I can take out one pouch and leave the rest of the trunk undisturbed.

Secure The Trunk For Travel

A quiet tack trunk still needs to be secured properly inside the trailer or tow vehicle. I place it on a level surface, away from the horse’s feet and clear of doors, partitions and feed bins. In the float, I use a tie-down point or cargo strap where appropriate, with a folded blanket between the strap and the trunk so the buckle cannot scratch it.

Heavy items stay low, and I avoid stacking another hard container on top. If two trunks travel together, I put a soft barrier between them and check that neither can move into the horse area. The trunk should not become a projectile if the vehicle brakes suddenly. This is one reason I prefer a smaller, manageable box over an enormous storage container packed beyond its safe carrying weight.

At home, I do a short test drive before a major competition. I take Archie’s gear around the local streets, then listen when I return. For longer journeys to venues outside Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane, I stop at the first safe break and check the catches, straps and bottles. The inspection takes a minute and often reveals a pouch that has settled or a towel that has slipped from the top.

Repack As Soon As We Arrive

When we reach the venue, I resist the temptation to scatter the contents beside the float. I remove the grooming pouch, water supplies and anything needed immediately, then leave the rest packed until I know where Archie will be tied up. This is useful at eventing grounds where the parking area may be crowded and a sudden shower can turn an orderly setup into a muddy scramble.

After the competition, I repack in reverse order. Muddy boots go into a separate bucket or washable bag, damp towels are hung up, and used bottles are wiped before returning to the liquid tub. I do not put wet sponges or sweat-soaked cloths into the closed tack trunk for the drive home. Australian heat can turn a small amount of moisture into a stale smell by the time the float reaches home.

The final check is the same one I use before leaving the yard: close the lid, lift each end, and listen. With the soft layers, divided pouches and secured bottles in place, the trunk makes a quiet, cushioned thud rather than a chorus of loose equipment. That small improvement makes travelling with Archie calmer, keeps the gear usable and means I arrive ready to focus on the event rather than repairing a packing disaster.