How I store eventing boots to stop mould and cracking

Eventing boots work hard. They collect arena dust, wet grass, sweat, mud, and the fine grit that gets thrown up on a cross-country course. If they are put straight into a dark gear bag after a competition, they can develop mould before the next training day. Leather can also dry out, stiffen, and crack around the ankle or crease.

I have learnt this through plenty of ordinary days with Archie, when the boots came home from dressage looking clean enough but still held moisture inside. The most reliable method is simple: remove dirt promptly, dry the boots slowly, condition the leather lightly, and store them upright in a cool, ventilated place. The details matter, especially in the Australian climate.

Why eventing boots develop mould and cracks

Mould needs moisture, warmth, and limited airflow. A closed plastic tub or zipped riding bag supplies the last two conditions very effectively, particularly when damp boots have been packed away after a rainy event. Sweat and wet grass can remain in the lining even when the outside feels dry, so the first visible sign may be a musty smell or a pale bloom on the leather.

Cracking has a different but related cause. Leather loses its natural oils when it is repeatedly soaked, scrubbed harshly, or dried too quickly. The folds over the instep and ankle are usually the first places to suffer because they flex with every stride. Salt from perspiration can also pull moisture from the leather and leave a stiff, brittle surface.

Australian weather makes these problems vary from place to place. A boot room in Brisbane or the north coast of New South Wales may stay warm and humid for much of the year, while a Melbourne stable can be cold and damp through winter. In either location, storing boots in a hot car, a sealed float locker, or a sunny laundry cupboard creates a poor drying environment.

Clean the boots before putting them away

I start by removing the insoles if they are designed to come out, then brushing off dry dirt with a soft brush. Mud should be loosened with a damp cloth rather than attacked with a stiff scrubbing brush. Sand and grit left around the zip, sole edge, or ankle crease can act like abrasive paste when the boot bends.

For leather riding boots, a barely damp cloth is usually enough for routine cleaning. If the boots are genuinely muddy, I use a small amount of mild saddle soap on the cloth, keeping water away from the inside. I do not soak the boots in a bucket or hold them under a tap. Excess water can affect adhesives, linings, zips, and the shape of the footbed.

After cleaning, I wipe away soap residue and check the tread, zip, stitching, and elastic panels. A cotton bud or soft toothbrush helps remove grit from the zip teeth. This small inspection is worthwhile because a damaged zip or split seam can allow water into the boot during the next event, turning a storage problem into a much larger repair.

Boots used for cross-country deserve particular attention. Red soil, manure, and wet vegetation can remain around the sole and heel, while arena boots may carry fine silica sand. I keep a separate old towel in the float for wiping gear before it goes into the vehicle. That habit prevents a surprising amount of dirt from travelling home.

Dry them slowly and give them airflow

The safest drying position is upright, open, and away from direct heat. I place my boots on a boot stand or support them with clean, rolled towels so that air can circulate inside the shaft. The tongue and zip are opened as far as possible, but I avoid forcing the zip if the leather is still wet or swollen.

A fan can help in a humid room, provided it moves room-temperature air rather than blasting the boots with heat. I avoid radiators, heaters, hairdryers, wood stoves, and leaving boots on concrete in full afternoon sun. Rapid drying may feel efficient, but it can shrink leather, harden the lining, and encourage creasing.

Newspaper can absorb a little moisture, although it must be changed when damp and should not be packed tightly into the boot. Plain paper or a washable boot insert is preferable if ink transfer is a concern. I never seal damp footwear in a bag simply because the outside appears dry; the inner lining often needs several additional hours.

In very humid areas, a small dehumidifier in the tack room can make a noticeable difference. It is better than placing loose chemical moisture absorbers where a horse, dog, or child can reach them. Silica gel sachets may be useful inside a storage box once the boots are fully dry, but they are not a substitute for proper ventilation.

Choose a breathable storage place

Once dry, my eventing boots are stored upright in a cool cupboard with the door slightly open, rather than compressed in the bottom of a tack bag. A fabric boot bag protects them from dust while allowing some airflow. If I use a plastic storage tub, I leave ventilation space around the boots and never close the lid until the leather has completely cooled and dried.

The boots should stand with enough support to prevent the shafts from folding sharply. A purpose-made boot tree is useful, but a rolled towel or clean, empty drink bottle can work if it fits without stretching the leather. I would rather support the shaft gently than use a rigid insert that distorts the top edge.

Darkness also helps. Ultraviolet light can fade and dry leather, while a hot shed roof can turn a storage area into an oven during an Australian summer. A shady, indoor spot with stable temperature is preferable to a veranda, vehicle, or metal tack locker. I keep boots separate from wet saddle cloths and sweaty clothing, which release moisture into the same enclosed space.

A clean shelf is better than a stable floor. Floors hold dust, damp, and manure particles, and boots left there can be knocked over or nibbled by curious animals. In a small Melbourne apartment or suburban garage, even a ventilated fabric organiser on a high shelf can provide more protection than a closed duffel bag.

Condition leather lightly, not constantly

After the boots are dry and clean, I apply a small amount of leather conditioner with a soft cloth. I concentrate on flex points, the toe, and areas that look dull or dry, then buff away excess product. Heavy layers of oil can soften the structure, attract dust, stain breeches, and leave the surface sticky.

The conditioner must suit the kind of leather. Smooth full-grain leather may tolerate a traditional leather balm, while delicate finished leather, nubuck, suede, and patent surfaces require different care. I check the manufacturer’s instructions and test any unfamiliar product on a hidden area first. A product sold for saddles is not automatically suitable for tall boots.

Conditioning is best done after cleaning and before long-term storage, not on boots covered in grit. I also avoid applying product inside the lining, around elastic panels, or directly onto a zip. Those areas need to stay clean and flexible rather than greasy.

Synthetic riding boots need a different approach. They generally need wiping, drying, and occasional care recommended by the maker rather than leather oil. Excess conditioner can make synthetic material slippery or encourage residue. If Archie’s boots are likely to get muddy again the next morning, I clean them properly but wait until they are dry before deciding whether any further treatment is needed.

Prepare boots for the float and competition

Storage begins before I leave an event. After removing the boots, I wipe off visible mud and grass at the venue, then place them loosely in a breathable bag. I keep a second bag for dirty towels and clothing so moisture is not trapped against the footwear. The boots travel home with the bag open if conditions allow, rather than sealed inside a hot float compartment.

This routine is particularly useful after a wet event at venues around Sydney, Canberra, or the outskirts of Melbourne, where the weather can change quickly during the drive home. A pair that feels merely cool at the grounds may still be damp by the time the float is unloaded. I unpack everything as soon as I arrive, even if it is late and the house is already in evening mode.

My older competition notes, including these June eventing notes, remind me how often a show weekend involves more than the classes themselves: loading, driving, waiting, grooming, and cleaning gear between phases. Boot care has to fit that reality. A simple cloth, spare towel, and ventilated bag are more useful at a venue than a complicated kit that stays at home.

Biosecurity matters as well. Boots can carry soil, manure, and plant material between properties, so I clean them before moving to another stable or competition venue. State and territory biosecurity rules can apply when equipment, horses, or soil are moved between areas, and organisers may have their own cleaning requirements. Removing visible contamination is both good boot care and responsible horse management.

Build a routine that catches problems early

I inspect the boots each time they come off, looking for mould spots, cracking, loose stitching, stretched elastic, and a zip that is beginning to drag. A musty smell is an early warning, even when the surface looks fine. If mould appears, I isolate the boots from other leather items, brush off loose growth outdoors, and clean them according to the manufacturer’s guidance before drying them thoroughly.

For persistent mould, I avoid experimenting with strong household bleach, vinegar mixtures, or disinfectants. These may discolour leather, damage finishes, or irritate skin when the boots are worn. Specialist leather-care products are safer when used as directed, and badly affected boots may need assessment by a professional repairer.

I also keep a record of which boots are for schooling, dressage, or cross-country. That makes it easier to notice whether one pair is exposed to more water or sweat than another. Eventing boots are expensive enough that replacing them early because of preventable storage damage feels wasteful, but continuing to wear cracked leather can be uncomfortable and unsafe.

When buying care products in Australia, I look for clear directions and a product intended for the material rather than relying on the cheapest option at a general store. Australian Consumer Law provides protections for goods that are faulty or do not match their description, but normal deterioration from neglect, unsuitable chemicals, or poor storage is generally a different matter. Keeping receipts and following care instructions is sensible, especially for costly made-to-measure boots.

The finished routine is uncomplicated: clean the dirt off, dry the inside and outside slowly, condition only when the material needs it, and store the boots upright with air around them. That approach keeps mould at bay, protects leather from drying into cracks, and leaves the boots ready for the next lesson, travel day, or eventing phase with Archie.